A GAIN FOR NEUTRAL GRAIN - Issuu

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The IMPACT of the REVISION From a practical standpoint, the TTB’s revision brings clarity to how vodka is perceived. “The scientific definition of vodka is one thing. The public’s definition is another,” said Umberto Luchini, founder of Wolf Spirit Distillery, in Eugene, Oregon. “This created a disconnect within the category.” The new definition helps to fix this disconnect. What’s more, it does so in a way that reaches down to the level of the consumer, who judges a vodka’s merit on taste rather than adherence to standards of identity. It’s a bridge that some craft distillers thought was a long time coming. “The TTB is coming around to modern times by changing the definition,” said Danette Newton, co-founder and CEO of Lass & Lions Vodka in Chattanooga, Tennessee. “In a way, it almost felt inevitable.” While vodka’s new standard is more in tune with public perception, it doesn’t necessarily aid the casual vodka drinker. This is fine — they bought vodka before the change, and they’re still buying vodka after the change. The craft sector, on the other hand, stands to gain quite handsomely from this revision. Unfettered by the shackles of restrictions on character, craft brands can potentially attain more confidence in how they present their vodkas, particularly since they no longer need to worry about a craft enthusiast busting their chops over flavor or aromatics. This confidence could lead to the kind of deeply nerdy conversations traditionally reserved for other spirits. “There are all kinds of variables that go into producing a vodka, just like there are all kinds of variables that go into producing whiskey,” Bozcar stated. “But nobody ever talks about that. I’m hopeful that this eventually changes.” Prior to April 2020, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) defined vodka through its standards of identity as “to be without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color.” This description caused problems. It didn’t necessarily hinder sales — it’s still the best-selling spirit in the US with nearly 80 million cases moved in 2020. But it hurt the spirit’s reputation within the industry and among craft spirits geeks who unwittingly relegate the spirit to be dull. The description also turned vodka into a dreadful category to judge at spirits contests. If a tasting panel got the neutral grain spirit foisted upon them for a round of assessment, other tables would likely know about it due to the panel’s copious amounts of bitching. This changed on April 1, 2020, when the TTB revised its definition of vodka. In an instant, the restrictions on distinctive character, aroma, taste, and color were lifted. Judges rejoiced, or at the very least became less salty about getting served vodka tastings. More importantly, the revision caused excitement for craft distillers who had devoted time trying to help the spirit overcome its reputation as liquid boredom. As we approach the two-year anniversary of the change, the excitement hasn’t worn off yet, as the opportunity for advocacy on behalf of the oft-maligned spirit is still abundant. “The change matters to us, because there are still a ton of people in the industry that just say, ‘vodka’s vodka,’” explained Andrew Bozcar, vice president of Grand Teton Distillery in Driggs, Idaho. “Nothing could be further from the truth.” Unfettered by the shackles of restrictions on character, craft brands can potentially attain more confidence in how they present their vodkas, particularly since they no longer need to worry about a craft enthusiast busting their chops over flavor or aromatics.